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Surfing is an equal opportunity metaphor.
When the creative juices are stirring, the artist rides the wave full-on. The surfer in the Banzai Pipeline articulates the shape and structure of the wave, drawing an utterly unique line composed of the ride. Any painter with brush in hand attempts the same balancing act: lying in wait for the right moment, making a decisive plunge, moving in collaborative sympathy with the wave’s energy all while risking a nose dredging wipe out under foamy mystery.
Surfers plummet into the barrel, the hollow core and emerge exhilarated by an encounter with pure, charged creative force.
For the painter - for all of us, the surf is always up.
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This post concludes the Hawai’i Series. My thanks to those people who extended such humbling generosity, vision and hospitality. This place really is a paradise that I never dreamed would be part of my reality.
Posted by mark at February 3, 2005 04:13 AMLike skiing, I always thought I would like surfing. The reasons, I guess, are similar: the creativity, the exhilaration, the experience, the freedom.
Posted by: SPR at February 3, 2005 12:58 PMThese photographs and your piece at the top of the page are fantastic! I have always loved the idea of surfing and hope to try it someday....the closest I have come is riding a boogie board on the Jersey shore...but I imagine it to be as exhilarating as skiing!! Thank you for sharing your photos.-K
Posted by: Kristy at March 6, 2005 10:45 PM